The Spot with Warren

I met Warren at the gym at 3:30 p.m. and worked some problems. I did a 3-spot white/pink on the west face of the Font boulder onsight and then started working on the orange squiggle 4-spot problem. This problem is very hard. I've touched the final hold before, but not today.

We then worked the pink 4-spot on the south face of the Font. We could both touch a high hold, but couldn't stick it. Ferris tried this one as well with the same results. Then Warren had to go.

I rested for a bit and tried it again. This time I held the hold for a bit and fell off. I rested again for 5-10 minutes and then I hit the hold! I got my left foot up, hit the next hold, which is slopey, then grabbed another good hold over the top. The top-out is tricky, but I was committed to doing anything to make it after hitting that hold. I found a crimp way to the left and used it to get my foot up on the purple hold we were going for. Now I switched my left hand to just reaching straight back and palming as I stood up on the purple hold and sent it! Sweet! I didn't think that was going to happen.

Psyched, I went around to the other side and sent the green 5-spot problem on my second try. Nice. I'd done it before but couldn't make any progress on Friday. I still failed on the problem on the overhanging side, but I was wasted at this point.

I met Warren at the Spot today and we had a good time. I was 30
minutes late because I spaced out at work, but we had time to
get tired. My temporary (one visit) lead over Warren has disappeared.
He easily did I9, I7 (onsight), A2 (onsight), and onsighted another 4-spot problem.

I had another good workout. I did I9 again. A5 again, second
try today after ten tries or so on Monday. I did the orange Open
#1 problem (rated 5-spots) onsight!. Clearly this is massively
mis-rated, but fun anyway. It will be harder if you are shorter
than 5'10" probably. This is the orange problem on the scoop area of
the Hueco boulder.

I then did another 5-spot problem on the north side of the Font
boulder (marked with green). This is not 5 either, of course, because, by definition, a
5-spot problem is one I can't do. This problem has 2 or 3 hard
moves. In this same area is a black 4+ spot problem and I have not
finished this one. It's hard. Also on this side is a red 4-spot problem
that has a total of 4 holds on it, one of which is the starting foothold.
This problem is trivial, but fun.

Fun times at the Spot!

Bill

I had a good day at the Spot today. I sent I9 again, on my first try. I did some 3-spot on the scoop of the Hueco first try as well. Then I got A3 (you were right there is PCA hold on this route) on my second try! Sweet. Yes, the top out on this baby would be very exciting for a shorter person. I was just able to reach far enough backto grab a good edge.

I then did the pink/black 4-spot problem on the northeast side of the Hueco boulder, but started two moves into it (not very hard moves). I'll have to clean that up from the start on Wed.

I also did A5 after about six more tries. This is the blue one on the west buttress of the Hueco boulder. I did it an outrageous way! Normally you go from the start up to a good hold under the roof wtih your right hand and then do a big cross through to a really good pocket with your right. Then up left to a terrible pink hold and a huge throw to an oblong hold. I couldn't do that, so I did this. First move is the same, then match on it. Now go right hand into the pocket. Now load up big and jump for the oblong hold. Once you hit it, you'll swing way out, when you come back in you absolutely must stab the tiny foothold with your right foot. Once you do this, you're golden.
Excellent!

I also worked on the black 4-spot on this same buttress. Great stuff here. I've got up to the last holds, but can't make a move for the top. Wednesday, maybe...

Bill

Hi KB,

I went to Spot today and none of my buddies met me. I tried the comp problems.
I warmed up on some Recreational problems (1,3,5).
Then I did R8, R9, and R10. I moved on to the
Intermediate problems and did all of them first
try except I7 (3 tries), I9 (4 tries), and I couldn't
do jack on I10. Next I tried the Advanced problems.
I onsighted A1 and A2. Failed on A3, but did a few
moves, unlike I10. Failed on A5, but did a few moves.
Couldn't find A4 or A6. That was it. I was only there
an hour. No buddies showed up.

Very similar to your effort, except that you were close
on A3. That was a hard one. I had my left hand on the
good ear above the roof and my right hand on a sloper
up high. Now I leaned way back and got my right foot on
the good hold underneath the roof, but I'm stuck. I assume
I have to go up with the right again, but I don't know.
The holds then go way right and no feet. Looked hard
above.

Yes, I7 was pretty hard, but it had only two hard moves,
but at the beginning, then it was no problem. I9 is burly
and had one very hard move when you have to reach way left
with your left hand around the opening roof. I fell off
that move twice and bungled the start once.

Bill