Training reports from my trips to the Spot and the BRC

Monday, January 24, 2005

I had a good day at the Spot today. I sent I9 again, on my first try. I did some 3-spot on the scoop of the Hueco first try as well. Then I got A3 (you were right there is PCA hold on this route) on my second try! Sweet. Yes, the top out on this baby would be very exciting for a shorter person. I was just able to reach far enough backto grab a good edge.

I then did the pink/black 4-spot problem on the northeast side of the Hueco boulder, but started two moves into it (not very hard moves). I'll have to clean that up from the start on Wed.

I also did A5 after about six more tries. This is the blue one on the west buttress of the Hueco boulder. I did it an outrageous way! Normally you go from the start up to a good hold under the roof wtih your right hand and then do a big cross through to a really good pocket with your right. Then up left to a terrible pink hold and a huge throw to an oblong hold. I couldn't do that, so I did this. First move is the same, then match on it. Now go right hand into the pocket. Now load up big and jump for the oblong hold. Once you hit it, you'll swing way out, when you come back in you absolutely must stab the tiny foothold with your right foot. Once you do this, you're golden.
Excellent!

I also worked on the black 4-spot on this same buttress. Great stuff here. I've got up to the last holds, but can't make a move for the top. Wednesday, maybe...

Bill

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