Ran the Brook Loop this morning with 4 inches of snow. It was tiring, like running uphill in sand. It made for a slow loop (48 minutes).

I went to the gym at lunchtime and climbed mostly with Trashy, but everyone was there: Hardly, Judy, Scott Conner, Sonya, Bobbie Bensman, Lynn Hill, Chip Chace, etc. Bill Briggs was just leaving as I was coming in. He hung his head in shame! He doesn't like being spotted in the gym. Hilarious.

I warmed up on a 5.9+ and then had to hang once on an overhanging 5.10d. Then I tried a 5.11 that was really hard at the top and I hung on that one as well. Dang. I moved on to my 5.12- project, which better suited my style (not so thuggish, tricky, slopey, and overrated, of course). I got to the penultimate hold clean and then it spun on me! Ack! I tried to finish not using it, but fell off. Still a good effort. Hardly threw up the wrench and I cranked down the hold. On my next try, I sent it! Sweet. Only four total tries for that one. Probably 5.11
something.

Then I tried a 5.12- on a wall that is merely vertical. It was really tricky, hard clips, small holds, etc. I hung a few times getting up it, but figured out some tricks on TR on the way down.

On my second try I got within one move of the top before falling off. On my third go, I sent it! Two 5.12's clean in one gym visit! This route is soft to be sure, but the climbing is really excellent. Some trickery makes it definitely easier than 5.12. I like both of these 5.12 routes a lot. I bouldered up the start of another 5.12-, but the overhanging part above looks completely brutal! I'll start working on it on Monday.

The bad part is, at the end of my workout, I tried the self-belay on the 10d and 5.11 that I fell off while warming up and I still fell off them! Those routes are hard for me. They are pumped, physical, and require the use of a left thumb somewhat on a couple of pinch holds. That hurts me somewhat, but they are tough routes for me to be sure.

Anyway:
5.9 1 route
5.10d 2 routes (one on TR)
5.11 2 routes (one on TR)
5.12- 5 routes

When I say "routes" I don't mean different routes, but leading a route from
the bottom to the top in some fashion. Even if the 5.12's were really soft, I'm pretty excited about this gym visit. Good for the ego and motivation. You guys would send these routes without question in less than ten tries.

Bill