Training reports from my trips to the Spot and the BRC

Wednesday, March 10, 2004

None of my usual partners showed up at the BRC. That usually isn't a crisis since I can use the self-belay and maybe boulder a bit. The gym was nearly deserted as well. But I hooked up with a couple of local homies: Roger Briggs and John Krakauer. These guys are great, Roger especially. I warmed up on a 5.9 and a 5.10 and then went to my project, the red 5.12 on the Mary Jane Wall. Roger had cruised this route on Friday. I fell at the last move three times in a row! Dang. Roger was nice enough to fall off this route at the crux as well. John sent the tricky pink 5.11+ on his second go. Everyone had to leave then and I took off as well to pick up my mountain bike, but I think I finagled a possible D1 attempt with Roger himself! Sweet! That'd be like climbing the Nose with Hans or the West Face of El Cap with Hudon, or the Third Flatiron with Homie, or Seal Rock with the White Rim, or the Mace with Opie...

You get the idea. Despite failing on my project for the 10th time (?) it was a good, brief session.

Friday, March 05, 2004

I went to the gym on Friday. I warmed up on two 5.10s again and then sent my 11c project first try. It was desperate at times, but I hung on. Then I got on the 5.12 project and botched it a bit, hanging twice. The next two tries I fell on the last hard move near the top. Dang. So close. It's too nice here today (60's!) that I'll probably bike up Flagstaff and work on the Monkey Traverse instead of hitting the gym.

Wednesday, March 03, 2004

A short session at the BRC, but a lot better than Monday. Instead of warming up on with a 5.9, 10+, and three 5.11's, I warmed up with two 5.10- routes. Then I went to the 11c project. First time up I got four clips (previous best was two clips) and then hung. This is one hard move away from relatively easy ground. Dang! But so much better. I rested and had an exact repeat performance. At least I didn't regress. Hopefully I'll get this on Friday.

Then I went to the 5.12 (no minus) project. My best effort before was two hangs. I messed up the footwork a couple of times and that prevented me from clipping. I ended up hanging three times on the route. I rested again and then had my best performance on it yet. I made all the clips save the last one and was at the final hard move when I came off. I hung and then sent from there. One hang! It might not go on Friday, but it is getting close. It might go on Friday if the 11c goes first try. I usually only have three hard, at-my-limit efforts in me per workout.

Just six routes, but hard ones.

Bill