Training reports from my trips to the Spot and the BRC

Friday, February 27, 2009

Ticked off the Tsunami!

Tom and Ben dragged me off to the gym for 4 quick routes. I warmed up on a 5.9, then sent the super overhanging 5.11 on the Tsunami Wall!!!! I can't believe I did it. I stalled out at the same spot where I hung before, not able to click and a long way from the top. Instead of hanging, I decided to climb on, expecting to fall soon and then having to lower to the ground since I'd be hanging in free space. But further up, I was able to clip really low, down by my knee. Then I kept sticking each deadpoint (all these are to huge holds, but I'm nearly horizontal). I made it. Sweet! I then failed on my 11+ and 12- projects, not making it even close to the top on the second one. It was fun, though.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Some Moderate Success

Met Tom at the gym early this morning. I warmed up on a 5.8, then a 5.10, then onsighted a 10+. I next went to the yellow 11+ that I have been on about ten times. I got to the within two holds of the top before pitching off. I was just too pumped.

Next I sent the red 5.11 that had been throwing me on the last giant move to the top.

Then I tried the white 5.11+ on the Mary Jane wall. This one is cool. I fell at the 2nd to last clip. It was just too pumpy. After resting a bit, I tried again. This time I skipped that clip until it was down at my thigh. I was risking a long fall, but it would just be into space and Tom is a solid belayer. I made the clip and sent the route, barely.

I finished by trying a 5.11 on the big tsunami roof. These things are my bane. I suck at them because hanging upside down by one hand to clip, just kills me. I hung after four clips and then made the top.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Failing on each route

After one warm-up route (10-), I proceeded to fail on a super sandbag 5.11-, another sandbag 5.11-, a 5.11+, 5.11+, 5.11, and a 5.12-. I had quite a streak going. I guess it beats doing the same route over and over to get the redpoint, but maybe not. I'll try the same sequence next time.