Ticked off the Tsunami!

Tom and Ben dragged me off to the gym for 4 quick routes. I warmed up on a 5.9, then sent the super overhanging 5.11 on the Tsunami Wall!!!! I can't believe I did it. I stalled out at the same spot where I hung before, not able to click and a long way from the top. Instead of hanging, I decided to climb on, expecting to fall soon and then having to lower to the ground since I'd be hanging in free space. But further up, I was able to clip really low, down by my knee. Then I kept sticking each deadpoint (all these are to huge holds, but I'm nearly horizontal). I made it. Sweet! I then failed on my 11+ and 12- projects, not making it even close to the top on the second one. It was fun, though.

Some Moderate Success

Met Tom at the gym early this morning. I warmed up on a 5.8, then a 5.10, then onsighted a 10+. I next went to the yellow 11+ that I have been on about ten times. I got to the within two holds of the top before pitching off. I was just too pumped.

Next I sent the red 5.11 that had been throwing me on the last giant move to the top.

Then I tried the white 5.11+ on the Mary Jane wall. This one is cool. I fell at the 2nd to last clip. It was just too pumpy. After resting a bit, I tried again. This time I skipped that clip until it was down at my thigh. I was risking a long fall, but it would just be into space and Tom is a solid belayer. I made the clip and sent the route, barely.

I finished by trying a 5.11 on the big tsunami roof. These things are my bane. I suck at them because hanging upside down by one hand to clip, just kills me. I hung after four clips and then made the top.

Failing on each route

After one warm-up route (10-), I proceeded to fail on a super sandbag 5.11-, another sandbag 5.11-, a 5.11+, 5.11+, 5.11, and a 5.12-. I had quite a streak going. I guess it beats doing the same route over and over to get the redpoint, but maybe not. I'll try the same sequence next time.

Long time no gym

January 24, 2006

I hadn't climbed at all since Sedona over Thanksgiving and there I didn't do anything harder than 5.9. I also hadn't worked out at all in two weeks and just weak and heavy. But you aren't going to get any better unless you start putting in some work. Hence, I met Tom and Judy at the BRC at 6:30 a.m.

I just did whatever route Judy did, as Tom was lightyears ahead of me. I did a 5.8 and then a 5.9 to warm up. Then Judy jumped on a 5.10, not even a 5.10-. I followed suit and with the beta, avoided a bad hold near the top with a big reach and got the flash. Next was a 5.11a/b. Judy hung on it a couple of times. I went next and got up to the penultimate clip before coming off. Then I noticed I was only tied in via my waist loop. That was uncomfortable, so I lowered off to fix it. I got the route clean on my next go, skipping the last clip. I made the top of the route and hung on for quite awhile, but was unable to clip. I went for a pretty good ride when I came off because I had skipped that last clip. I called it good and moved on.

Next was a 5.11- route that was slopey and insecure with some tricky clips. I onsighted the route through all the clips to the very last move, before coming off. I wasn't grabbing the final hold right.

That was the end of the success. Next I tried a 5.11+ (what was I thinking?). I hung three times and got really burnt out. I finished with a 5.11- in a dihedral that should have played to my strengths, but I had no strength left. I hung once, but climbed it horribly and was completely desperate the whole way. I was just gone and called it a morning and came to work.

Bill

BRC

This is from early January sometime...

I hadn't climbed at all since Sedona over Thanksgiving and there I didn't do anything harder than 5.9. I also hadn't worked out at all in two weeks and just weak and heavy. But you aren't going to get any better unless you start putting in some work. Hence, I met Tom and Judy at the BRC at 6:30 a.m.

I just did whatever route Judy did, as Tom was lightyears ahead of me. I did a 5.8 and then a 5.9 to warm up. Then Judy jumped on a 5.10, not even a 5.10-. I followed suit and with the beta, avoided a bad hold near the top with a big reach and got the flash. Next was a 5.11a/b. Judy hung on it a couple of times. I went next and got up to the penultimate clip before coming off. Then I noticed I was only tied in via my waist loop. That was uncomfortable, so I lowered off to fix it. I got the route clean on my next go, skipping the last clip. I made the top of the route and hung on for quite awhile, but was unable to clip. I went for a pretty good ride when I came off because I had skipped that last clip. I called it good and moved on.

Next was a 5.11- route that was slopey and insecure with some tricky clips. I onsighted the route through all the clips to the very last move, before coming off. I wasn't grabbing the final hold right.

That was the end of the success. Next I tried a 5.11+ (what was I thinking?). I hung three times and got really burnt out. I finished with a 5.11- in a dihedral that should have played to my strengths, but I had no strength left. I hung once, but climbed it horribly and was completely desperate the whole way. I was just gone and called it a morning and came to work.

Bill

BRC with Tom and Judy

I hadn't climbed at all since Sedona over Thanksgiving and there I didn't do anything harder than 5.9. I also hadn't worked out at all in two weeks and just weak and heavy. But you aren't going to get any better unless you start putting in some work. Hence, I met Tom and Judy at the BRC at 6:30 a.m.

I just did whatever route Judy did, as Tom was lightyears ahead of me. I did a 5.8 and then a 5.9 to warm up. Then Judy jumped on a 5.10, not even a 5.10-. I followed suit and with the beta, avoided a bad hold near the top with a big reach and got the flash. Next was a 5.11a/b. Judy hung on it a couple of times. I went next and got up to the penultimate clip before coming off. Then I noticed I was only tied in via my waist loop. That was uncomfortable, so I lowered off to fix it. I got the route clean on my next go, skipping the last clip. I made the top of the route and hung on for quite awhile, but was unable to clip. I went for a pretty good ride when I came off because I had skipped that last clip. I called it good and moved on.

Next was a 5.11- route that was slopey and insecure with some tricky clips. I onsighted the route through all the clips to the very last move, before coming off. I wasn't grabbing the final hold right.

That was the end of the success. Next I tried a 5.11+ (what was I thinking?). I hung three times and got really burnt out. I finished with a 5.11- in a dihedral that should have played to my strengths, but I had no strength left. I hung once, but climbed it horribly and was completely desperate the whole way. I was just gone and called it a morning and came to work.

Bill

BRC Again

Went to the gym with Hardly this morning. Did 5.9, 5.10-, 5.10c/d, 5.10 (this was the green one that I hung all over last time), orange 5.10 left of Tsunami (all flashed). Then a 5.10+ with a big move at the lip of a roof and then a hard pull over it. I tried it three times, always with the same result. Fall at the big move, hang, then complete. Dang. Then I tried a really slope-y, only-vertical 5.11 route. I hung on it 3 or 4 times on my first try and 2-3 times on my second try. It will go, but need more efforts on it. Still need to clean up the orange 5.10 on the Mary Beth Wall.