Monday at the Spot

I arrived around 1:30 p.m. at the Spot today. No one had responded to my email to meet me, but I found a number of friends there including Alina, Ferris, Jonathon Lantz, and Jimmy Redo. I had an okay session. I sent the black 4-spot on the west buttress of the Hueco boulder on my second try! That made the whole visit fruitful, so I was satisfied. I had tried this problem probably 20 times. I then tried the new black/white one just left of this. I got up to touch the last hold, but couldn't hang it. What's more, the top is the crux - no holds! This has a very hard move to a 2-finger pocket. I can just barely do this semi-static. Ferris jumps up to this pocket.

I then started working on Kreighton's blue/yellow 4-spot problem on the overhanging face of the Hueco boulder. That thing is brutal! There are two really hard moves for me. Adrop into an undercling and then the move off the big sloper. I worked it like a route. I did all the moves in three "pitches". :-) I sent it twice by starting with my left hand on the sloper and my right hand on the hold to the right. BUT, it took me two "pitches" to get this far. Hopefully Wednesday I can get it down to two pitches. It's so powerful that I don't see myself sending it this week. Maybe never, but I'll work on it.